Со старых открыток на нас смотрит великолепный курорт, который возник благодаря своему удобному расположению. Еще полтора столетия тому назад подойти к морю в районе Одессы было непросто. Практически ко всем современным пляжам, расположенным в черте города, вели крутые обрывы и спуски. Аркадия же имела естественный выход к воде благодаря древнему оврагу, который сейчас превращен в пешеходную аллею, которая переходит в улицу Генуэзскую.

Немного истории

Аркадия в настоящее время — это административно-территориальная единица второго уровня в Греции. В древности это была центральная область в Пелопоннесе, которая находилась в горах. По представлению древних греков, в Аркадии царили счастье, покой, мир и простота нравов.

Таким образом, Аркадия стала символом привольного отдыха, что и призваны доказать золотистые пляжи, привлекательно раскинувшиеся в промежутке между пятой и седьмой станциями Большого Фонтана.

От оврага к первоклассному месту отдыха

Не всегда Аркадия была привычным курортом для тысяч отдыхающих. В начале-середине XIX столетия каменистый берег лишь кое-где сменялся загородными дачами и редкими купальнями. В то время Аркадия была красивым, но довольно диким местом: по сути, это был овраг, по склонам которого едва заметно к морю стелился ручеек, описывая причудливые зигзаги на степном ковре трав.

Берег Аркадии, открытка 19 в.

Однако, вскоре тихое место у моря показалось перспективным директору одесского агентства бельгийского акционерного общества конно-железной дороги. Благодаря предприимчивому месье Камбье, здесь на сваях был открыт ресторан «Аркадия», название которого вскоре распространилось и на окрестные земли.

Вид на Аркадию, 19 в.

Это было излюбленное место одесской публики. Справочное издание Островского, выпущенное уже в годы Первой мировой войны, так описывает это райский уголок: «Аркадия, излюбленное место одесситов в летнее время. В Аркадии великолепный открытый берег, составляющий главную приманку. Это настоящий пляж, где можно прийти в непосредственное общение с морем без всяких спусков и напряжений физических сил».

Аркадия, открытка нач. 20 в.

От элитного отдыха к массовому

Не один раз воспетая в стихах и романах Аркадия была символом роскошества и праздности, особенно в первые полтора десятилетия XX века. Позже здесь возникли многочисленные курорты. Со временем пансионаты и здравницы были объединены в целый комплекс, который насчитывал не менее 20 различных зданий.

Аркадия, открытки ок. 1900 г (1)

Аркадия, открытки ок. 1900 г (2)

Аркадия, открытки ок. 1900 г (3)

Зимний ресторан в Аркадии, нач. 20 в.

Аркадия, купальни

Каждый день аркадийский пляж могли посещать до 4 тысяч 500 человек. В 1935—1939 годах архитектором Каневским и инженером Безчастновым была проведена реконструкция Аркадийской балки. Тогда были вымощены дорожки, уположены склоны оврага, построено несколько павильонов, фонтан и ресторан.

Аркадия (2)

Аркадия, до намывки пещаного пляжа, 1930-е гг.

Аркадия, 1930-1950-е гг (1)

Аркадия, 1930-1950-е гг (2)

Аркадия, 1930-е гг.

В конце 1950-х годов было принято решение реализовать грандиозный по своей масштабности проект по созданию искусственных берегозащитных сооружений по всему побережью Одессы. Уникальный для своего времени проект предусматривал создание полосы песчаных пляжей протяженностью примерно 11 километров и шириной не менее 40 метров по всему побережью Одессы.

Аркадия (3)

Аркадия 1950-е гг.

Таким образом, Аркадия и другие одесские пляжи приняли привычный песочный вид. Интересно, что вплоть до конца 1950-х годов вход в Аркадию был платным.

Аркадия, 1950-е гг (1)

Аркадия, 1950-е гг (2)

Советский рай бесплатных пляжей

В 1960—1970-е годы Аркадия принимает тот вид, по которому так тоскуют многие одесситы. «У самого берега моря на склонах балки раскинулся старинный Аркадийский парк. Его украшают живописный фонтан и ведущая к пляжу аллея с яркими газонами цветов». Такой Аркадию описывает путеводитель по Одессе за 1975 год. В то время Одесса стала признанным курортом государственного масштаба.

Аркадия, 1966 г.

Действительно, тогда все было бесплатно. Не было «зоны платных услуг» на арендованных пляжах, деревянный топчан стоил 15 копеек на весь день. Но не было и большого комфорта.

Аркадия, аллея, 1966 г.

Из воспоминаний о тех временах: «После намывки песка пляжи стали очень широкими, и на них установили большое количество «топчанов» — лежаков из деревянных реек на ножках. Топчаны стояли длинными параллельными рядами вдоль пляжа, занимая иногда большую его часть, но вдоль кромки воды всегда оставалась довольно широкая полоса свободного песка. За использование топчана взималась плата (15-20 копеек без ограничения времени). Служащая пляжа периодически обходила свои владения и обилечивала отдыхающих. Одесситы не любили платить этот «налог» и старались перехитрить сборщицу. Некоторые при приближении женщины в белом халате норовили перелечь на топчан позади ее маршрута. Другие находили в песке старый билетик и предъявляли его, и если билет был продан сегодня (билеты имели номера), платить не приходилось. Купившие же билет из солидарности нарочно оставляли его где-нибудь в щели между планок для следующего клиента».

Аркадия, фонтан, 1968 г.

Аркадия сейчас: бутики, клубы и аквапарк

С начала 1990-х годов на территории Аркадийской аллеи стали появляться различные увеселительные заведения. Большинство читателей, наверное, помнят все эти разнокалиберные строения и «будки», заброшенный павильон для электрических машин и прочие древние аттракционы и увеселительные заведения.

аркадия, 2013 (1)

Чуть позже у самой воды стали появляться ночные клубы и рестораны с открытыми террасами. С каждым годом они отвоевывают на летний сезон все большую и большую площадь песочного пляжа. Иногда случались войны за владения МАФами, в которых принимал участие даже бывший городской голова Одессы Алексей Костусев.

аркадия, 2013 (2)

аркадия, 2013 (3)

В 2013 году Аркадию начали масштабно реконструировать. Работы продолжались более полугода, и в начале лета 2014 года Аркадия предстала в нынешнем виде. За это время перенесли разворотное кольцо трамвая, кардинальным образом переделали Аркадийскую аллею. На месте дороги, которая под сенью деревьев спускалась к пляжу, возникла аллея, по обе стороны которой разместились кафе, магазины и аквапарк.

1/6

2/6

3/6

4/6

5/6

6/6

В оформлении пространства приняли участие архитектор Юрий Беликов и скульптор Михаил Рева. Несмотря на известные имена и авторитет, их работа подверглась острой критике — немалой части одесситов новая Аркадия сильно не понравилась.

Станислав Кинка.


...

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